By Jed
During the week of October 12-16, I absented myself from my Los Angeles-based obligations to once again attend the greatest international music festival ever hosted in the North Atlantic -- Iceland Airwaves. Since 1999, approximately 200-300 bands/performers and 10,000 attendees make the most of a rainy, chilly week in Iceland's capital city, Reykjavík, squeezing into music stores, bars and cafes during the day, and night clubs, concert halls and an art museum at night to catch bands from all over the world (I'd estimate that between 60%-70% of the bands were Icelandic). As anyone who writes about Iceland will remind you, the entire nation's population remains well under 400,000, yet the wealth of high quality bands, from just about every genre imaginable, exceeds that of most American cities.
As much as I have been drawn to the Iceland Airwaves festival for the bands, I have been equally if not more impressed by the fans that make the journey to the North to enjoy something a little bit different from the typical American or European music festival. Just as I did last year, I met delightful people from all over the world, genuinely interested in music, excited about acts they'd never heard of, some having engaged in fairly extensive research of the local scene, not at all snobby and driven to have as much fun as possible, often staying up until the early morning hours to dance, chat over a kebab, or have a few extra overpriced drinks. Airwaves provides an unusually friendly and open atmosphere where one feels just as comfortable striking up a conversation with a stranger from another country as a member of the band one just saw perform.
To answer a few questions people typically ask whenever I go to Iceland:
1) No, although Iceland is quite north, in October the amount of daily sunlight is approximately similar to that in South California,
2) Yes, the weather is cold, but nothing worse than a very chilly, rainy day in Los Angeles in February -- you can handle it quite easily, with a decent jacket, especially if you are from the frozen American Northeast or Midwest!,
3) The language they speak is Icelandic,
4) Yes, that's a real language,
5) Yes, I did see Björk! and she was amazing,
6) While traditional Icelandic food features some very unusual meats, most people most of the time eat the same food we eat here: pizza, kebab, sandwiches, burgers, pasta, hot dogs,
7) Almost everyone speaks English quite well, often as well or better than the average American you'll meet on the street, and
8) Yes, the economy is totally screwed, but no, most people you'll meet are not the bankers/politicians responsible for the crisis, so no need to feel resentful towards the Icelandic public. Furthermore, at least according to Paul Krugman, signs indicate that things are getting better in Iceland better than many other European countries.
This is a long festival report, so I've summed up the highlights here:
Musical Highlights: Björk at the new Harpa venue, Retro Stefson, Gus Gus, Active Child, Yacht
Non-Musical Highlights: Afterparty Sunday night following the final act of the festival, chatting with strangers from around the world while eating kebab at Ali Baba, sitting in a jacuzzi at the Vesturbaer swimming pool Saturday morning
Lowlights: Wednesday night hangover waiting in line outside Nasa club to see Of Monsters and Men, locking myself out of an apartment and sleeping in a doorway, rain and wind
Dietary Highlights: The most amazing lamb soup I've ever tasted, Bæjarins Beztu hot dogs, Ali Baba kebabs (taste great, although 45 minute wait for a sandwich was too long), Svið (sheep's head)
Favorite Icelandic Musicians That I Met at the Festival: Dr. Gunni (of S.H. Draumur), Lóa of FM Belfast, Unnsteinn of Retro Stefson, and the girls from Samaris, Heiða from Hellvar
Do I recommend this festival?: Strongly, especially to those in Europe, on the East Coast of the U.S. (or near any U.S. city that has a direct flight (NYC, Seattle, DC sometimes)). I'd recommend it to anyone who likes music, even if that person knows little about Icelandic music specifically. At the risk of coming off all Burning Man (ICELAND AIRWAVES IS NOT LIKE BURNING MAN) I didn't meet a single person there who didn't love it, and come home with more friends than when they started.
The festival officially started on a Wednesday, October 12, but unofficial festivities began the day before.
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